Saturday, 4 March 2017

New Year, New Post

I make no apologies for my absence here.   Blogging seems to be drifting for everyone these days as social media takes over but I wanted to record some of my weaving projects in case it helps others who are struggling as I am to make the woven fabric into useful garments.   I'm not even sure how much I've spoken about weaving here but it is my avowed passion, ousting sewing and painting, although I do still dabble with some painting.  With arthritic hands and fingers, weaving is the least painful of the artistic endeavours open to me.

I recently wove a black mixed pre-wound Saori warp and it told me it wanted to be a jacket.  Much of Saori clothing is based around the kimono shape which is basically rectangles so, how hard can it be?!

The overall length of the fabric is 3.2 metres by approx 38cms.  In theory it wasn't quite enough fabric for the top I wanted to make so I had to do a bit of judicious cutting and stitching back together.  I knew all that patchwork would come in handy.

I was very good and made a cotton mock-up (toile) from a piece of sheet.  I had a Saori pattern for a t-shaped jumper but, just to be awkward I wanted mine to be like a cardigan, open at the front.  I was struggling with the actual construction and a friend of mine helped me to get to grips with that.  Added to that  a wonderful Facebook group gave me the solution to how to join the sleeves into the main body so I've had a great day today making the jacket.

I made a little model to test out how to join all the pieces together.

These two photos may not be that clear but I sewed the sections together in a set order so that the top and bottom were connected first and then the sleeve seams closed.

So, in order to get the right size pieces I had to do some cutting up.  If you're cutting woven fabric you need to stitch either side of the intended cut to stop everything unravelling.

Excuse the terrible photo but it was very sunny today.  I didn't have enough fabric to make the lower body section so I used the toile to map out how much I needed to piece to fill the gap.

It was a bit of a bodge job but actually it works well as you'll see in a minute.

The tricky part was getting the join at the underarm to work and be neat.  In the photo above the sleeve is forming the leg of the T shape.  I sewed the bodice seams first and closed the sleeve last.  There is a very useful video on YouTube that helped me get my head round this.

and also

So, how did it turn out?

I have added a pocket to the left front and I still need to sort out the fringes but it's been a long day so that's a job for tomorrow.  This has been quite a learning curve as I've never made a jacket before.  Needless to say this isn't lined as generally Saori is left unlined.

Back soon, well, hopefully sooner than 3 months!


Gina said...

I think that's really brave to cut into your beautiful woven fabric but the results are looking good!

Heather said...

I know nothing about weaving but it has always fascinated me. Your jacket is wonderful and definitely wearable - you should be proud of yourself, to have designed it and created the fabric for making it.
I can't think of any creative projects at present as I am down-sizing from a four bedroomed house to a one bedroomed flat! I am very excited about it as the one I like the look of has a door opening onto the gardens.
Lovely to hear from you again - looking forward to the next chapter.

Linda D. said...

Ooh very impressed!!! I still haven't made anything with my fabrics at all, they just become scarves or wraps, lol. Want to try though.

sharon young said...

Your jacket looks amazing, Julie, beautiful colours, and it suits you very well. I feel like you with regard to the blogs, they do seem to be just too much trouble for most people as FB and the other social networks are so quick to use. I think it's a shame as blogging seemed to be far more personal.

Amanda said...

That's fantastic Julie! And to actually use you cloth is fabulous. Did you see Frances Taylor's Bog Coats on WoW members page? Such an amazing pattern too.

Emma said...

I see nothing 'bodge' here at all!! As i said on fb (it does have it's uses) I am drooling ;) I've just done a blog post after such a long time too (come see me!!!) - We can't tell a lovely story like yours on a quick paragraph on fb which might get flicked past anyway - blogs will come back, i'm sure & be read by people who are actually interested ;) but if anything it's a personal record/diary for us, for ourselves. Wear this lovely jacket with pride!

Helen Suzanne said...

It looks great Julie. I too would like to make a proper garment from my weaving. This looks a neat design!

Margaret Cooter said...

It turned out well, certainly doesn't have a "this is my first jacket" look!